I. Introduction

A. History
1. Used since ancient times--cosmetic, hygiene, religion
2. Cultures--Egypt, Hebrews, Chinese, Japanese, Greeks, Romans, French
3. Now used in every conceivable product--cosmetics, fabrics, cars, carpet, paper products, medicines

II. Components of perfumes

A. Plant compounds
1. Purposes--attract pollinators, repel herbivores, poison competition (allelopathy)
2. Essential oils--usually terpenes, but also aldehydes, esters, ketones, alcohols, & phenol-based compounds
B. Extraction--various methods--earliest were probably incenses
1. pressing--citrus
2. steam distillation--rosewater--Avicenna (Persian) first wrote it up
3. solvent extraction--concrete is 1st extraction, second extraction with alcohol leaves absolute--narcissus, other plants with non-water soluble compounds
4. tincture--heated in alcohol--mostly animal substances
5. enfleurage (cold fat)--essences and pomades, for delicate flowers
C. Fixative--to make the scent last
Examples--castor, musk, ambergris (animal products), oakmoss (a lichen)

III. Perfume blends

A. Types--floral, citrus, musk, spice
B. Parts--top note, base note, main note, etc.
C. Science--Most are now synthesized--handbooks on how to concoct scents
D. Modern perfumes--most of cost is millions for "concept" and advertising
E. Making your own perfumes--essential oils, etc.

IV. Important plants

Citrus--Citrus aurantium (sour orange)--Rutaceae--petals = neroli oil, rind= bergamot
Jasmine--Jasminum spp.----flowers
Patchouli--Pogostemon spp.--Lamiaceae--Indomalaysial--oil from leaves
Rose--Rosa x damascena, etc.--cultivated, esp. Bulgaria,Turkey--petals
Sandalwood--Santalum album--Santalaceae--India--wood
Tuberose--Polianthes tuberosa--Agavaceae--cultivated in Mexico, now unknown in the wild-- flowers
Vetiver--Vetiveria zizanioides--Poaceae--India--roots
Ylang-ylang--Cananga odorata--Annonaceae--Madagascar, etc.--flowers

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